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Galina Parfenov Training for Climbing

October 25, 2012 By 9 Comments

Here is how climber Galina Parfenov trains her grip/ pull up strength.

Before some of you get all up in arms about this, no, I am not saying you should become a skinny girl that does tons of pull ups if you are a power lifter.

However, if you are looking to add some variety to your pull up / grip training, the exercises shown in the video are very good.

I remember doing all this stuff back when bouldering was my sport of choice. Non stop campus boarding and pull ups in every possible variation. My grip strength improved fairly quickly, but I also created some muscle imbalances as I neglected the antagonists.

But since she is a climber, that’s what she needs to do to get better.

Workout Summary:

Deadhangs on Fingerbooard
5-10, 5-second deadhangs on each type of grip

100 Pulls-Up Workout
8 Frenchies
8×6 uneven Pull Ups
20 regular

Campus Boad
ladders
bumps
lock-offs
double clutches

Rock Rings
5 sets of:
10 extensions
10 one arm lock-offs
1 Frenchy

Filed Under: climbing, grip, pull ups, videos
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  • seventyfive

    Don’t these people have jobs?!

    • GregorATG

      What kind of question is that?

      • seventyfive

        I was reffering to: “In the summer i love going to climbing gym in the morning before it gets to hot and all you want to do is lie on the couch and swim.”

        Guess she’s still in school. Im just frustrated and a jealous that I dont any have AM training sessions.

        • GregorATG

          Oh yeah, I should have added that she is still in high school.

  • supbro

    Great watch Gregor. Been interested in bouldering for a while. Impressive grip/pull-up strength

    • GregorATG

      Definitely a fun activity. You could call it active recovery after a heavy squat day.

  • CBo

    Good to know you come from a bouldering background, Gregor. I love the sport almost as much as I love weightlifting. If you have the right crew, getting out in the woods with your friends is just about as good as life can get.

    • GregorATG

      Odd thing is I was bouldering for a couple of years, but never on real rocks. Only on gym walls.

      Blasphemy I know.

  • ghost

    crazy bodyweight and grip strength. I couldn’t’ even do what she was doing if I trained for it.